Natural Dyes & Hair: The Art & Science of Hair Coloring
by Ms Maushumi Thakurta of MrilQ Cosmeceuticals
Coloring hair with INDIGO or Indigofera tinctoria– Part 1
True indigo is a shrub one to two meters high. The leaves and soft stems of the plant contain “Indican”, a colorless molecule. When the leaves are soaked in water and fermented, Indican Molecule breaks into Indoxyl & Glucose molecules. The fermented powdered leaves are greenish in color and contain the INDOXYL MOLECULE which plays a MAJOR ROLE in coloring the hair. This fermented powdered leaves , known as “Indigo Powder “ is used for coloring hair.
Indigo naturally colors the hair from Grey to Blue to Chestnut brown to Black shade depending on the actual color of the hair and the porosity of the hair.
Natural dyes are biodegradable, are eco-friendly and safe for humans.
Q) How do we make the INDIGO MIX in the correct way?
Add lukewarm water to the Indigo powder and apply on the hair immediately WITHOUT WAITING. Powdered Indigo leaves contain INDOXYL( present as an intermediate) molecule.
When water is added to the Indigo powder, and applied immediately, the INDOXYL molecule ( Greenish in color ) will bind to the Keratin of the hair and start dyeing the hair well.
If we keep the Indigo Powder mixed with water for a longer time, the Indoxyl Molecule will get oxidized to Indigo molecule (metallic bluish black color as a top deposit refer to picture 1) .
Indigo molecule cannot bind to the keratin of the hair and color it. It will get washed off with water, once you shampoo off your hair.
Q) What happens when Indigo powder is kept exposed to air?
Powdered Indigo leaves contain INDOXYL molecule. Indoxyl molecule in Indigo Powder, when exposed to air or moisture, it gets oxidized to INDIGO Molecule. Indigo molecule does not bind to the keratin of the hair. So it is very important to keep INDIGO Powder in airtight containers.
Q) What happens when INDOXYL molecule changes to INDIGO Molecule?
INDOXYL molecule has the property to bind to the keratin of the hair and color it well. When INDOXYL gets oxidized to INDIGO molecule, it loses its ability to bind to the keratin of the hair and color it well. Hence the hair color gets washed off in the first wash itself and cannot be used for dyeing hair.
Q) How do we differentiate between pure Indigo powder and other powders?
Make a paste of indigo powder with water. The paste should be dark green in color. Put the paste on a white paper towel, and leave it there for about an hour.
For pure Indigo powder, after an hour, you would notice a dark navy bluish color on the surface, and bluish-green dye seeping out onto the paper.
If the paste stains the paper in blackish or brownish tinge or any other, it is NOT A pure Indigo powder. ( Reference Pic 1)
Pic 1: Dye release by a pure indigo powder on a paper towel
Indigo Properties
Indigo is a safe natural dye, which not only colors the hair, but also improves the quality of the hair. it is used in Neelibhriangadi since ages as an ayurvedic oil for hair treatment. It works well for bringing back strength and sheen to lifeless hair.
Patch test Indigo before applying directly on hair to check for indigo allergy.
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